Tuesday 3 November 2015

Whangarei and beyond - Early European Settlement

 
The Waterfront, Town Basin, Whangarei Harbour - photo Chris Ball February 2014

Whangarei in 2015 - a population of about  50,000 and the largest city in Northland New Zealand. Back 175 years ago,   a number of early European Settlers arrived in 1839 and 1840  - amongst them my own kin - the  Scottish families of Carruth, Gorrie, Morton, Wall,  and later in the 1850's to the area, came  the Wilson and McKenzie families.  These families were linked and interlinked by marriage, friendships, occupation, community and church. For those early  European settlers in 1839 and 1840 it was a time when the Treaty of Waitangi was being signed. For all it was a time when all were learning to live with each other in a place.  A period of adjustment to each other's ways and culture.
 

Waitangi Monument which has stood  at Te Tii Marae since 1880's bears full Maori text of Treaty of Waitangi 
 photo Chris Ball February  2014  

Those first  European settlers must have wondered what they had come to in the Whangarei area. For accounts tell of an area covered in  bracken, tea tree scrub and Tutu. William Carruth was said to have been the first  European settler to the Whangarei Area  and Gilbert  Mair the second. By 1845  twelve families were known to have lived  in Whangarei Area. Besides my own kin, were  also the families of Dent, Runciman, Greenhill, Pollock, Mair, Holman and German, Cook.
 
 
Voyage from Scotland to Australasian Waters:
Carruth Family :-
 
The first of my kin  arrived  from Scotland in 1835. They settled firstly in Illawarra in New South Wales before venturing further to New Zealand.  William and Robert Carruth arrived at Port Jackson, Sydney, Australia aboard Royal Saxon on 2 February 1835.  Both farmers, they followed farming pursuits until 1838  when the two brothers sold the  Illawarra farm,   along with the cattle.

 Robert Carruth headed back to London and home country , a passenger aboard the barque Hope on 23 February 1839. On 30th October  1839, Robert left Glasgow with his brother John aboard the Bengal Merchant, a ship bound for Wellington, New Zealand. A voyage chartered and organised  by the New Zealand Company, Bengal Merchant arrived at Port Nicholson, Wellington on 20th February 1840.
 
 Both brothers did not stay in the new settlement of Wellington, but headed up to Whangarei, joining their brother William Carruth, who by then, was living there. Robert built  a little 6 ton cutter called Trial, which  he sailed regularly between Whangarei and Auckland.
 
William Carruth headed for the Bay of Islands, New Zealand, left at the end of February 1839 aboard the  cutter Aquila of 43 tons burthen. The newspaper  reported in the shippping intelligence:

 "Same day, the cutter Aquila, Francis master, for New Zealand, with sundries. Passengers-Messrs M'Leod, Fulloon, Bird, and Carruth."
 
The Sydney Monitor and Commercial Advertiser, Friday 1 March 1839 Page  4

The following year the cutter Aquila was shipwrecked with the loss of three lives:-
 
"We report the loss of the cutter Aquila, Captain Mark, belonging to Mr Scott, on Monday evening. 11 persons on board. She left the Harbour in the afternoon for the Thames, and almost ten or eleven o'clock in the evening the Captain mistook one island for another, in consequence the vessel was driven upon a reef. Three passengers perished. Mr McLeod, Mrs Garling and Mr Henry. The captain returned to Kororareka to announce the disaster"

July 2 1840 page 2 New Zealand Advertiser and Bay of Islands Gazette
 
By then , William Carruth was settled in the Whangarei Area, having made his way after arrival , down the coast in a hired 6 ton trader, from the Bay of Islands as the Kororareka area did not appeal. Anchoring at the heads overnight till morning, the trader then proceeded up river.

Gorrie Family:-

William Gorrie Snr arrived at Kororareka, Bay of islands, a passenger aboard the Brigantine Deborah on 26 November 1840. Captain Thomas Wing master of Deborah, was to make a valuable early contribution to the exploration , navigation and cartography of New Zealand Waters, one of his last roles being Harbourmaster of the Manukau, Auckland. William Gorrie Jnr. was born on arrival at Kororareka.

Sherrin, Richard Arundell, Wallace J.H. Edited by   Leys, Thomson W .  1890. Early history of New. Auckland, New Zealand: H Brett, printer and Publisher. https://archive.org/details/earlyhistoryofne00sher

With William  Senior ( previously a widower ) travelled,  newly married  second wife Mary  Gorrie ( nee Morton ) , and children from his first marriage - eldest son John Gorrie, daughters Elizabeth AKA Eliza, Mary and Dinah. Elizabeth AKA Eliza Gorrie married Edward Wall, shipbuilder, at Kororareka ( Russell) in 1841. Mary  Gorrie married Wellesley Hughes, merchant in 1846 at Auckland. Unfortunately Wellesley died in 1854 and Mary remarried Neil Murray McFadyen in 1861.  McFadyen, shareholder of the Mercury Bay Sawmill Company ( Auckland Saw Mill Company ( Limited),Coromandel Peninsula did not survive the shipwreck of the timber laden schooner Rapid in March 1864. Accounts in newspapers of the time, described the shipwreck as " calamitous" Mary  remained  a widow until her death.
 
John Gorrie, eldest son married Elizabeth Thomson Stewart soon after her arrival  at Auckland aboard Whirlwind in July 1859. Elizabeth was daughter of John Stewart and Christian Stewart nee Morton. Christian was sister of Mary Morton and Margaret Johnston Morton.  John became the first ordained Minister of the Presbyterian Free Church of New Zealand on 8 January 1862 . He returned to the Whangarei area where his father had first settled. Here Reverend John Gorrie administered to a widespread parish, riding around the churches of the district. From St. Andrews at Whangarei, to Mangapai, and Kaurihohore.
 
Whangarei Harbour - Photo Chris Ball February 2014
Morton Family:-

The Morton siblings originally came from Gallomuir, Forgandenny in Scotland.
Travelling to New Zealand, with their sister Mary Gorrie ( nee Morton), were Margaret Johnston Morton, Dr. Andrew Morton and brother William. Margaret Johnston Morton, youngest sibling of the Morton family married John Carruth at Kororareka in  1841.

The Morton brothers - Dr. Andrew and William, a vet, finding not enough remuneration for their occupations, moved to Queanbeyan, New South Wales, Australia. William Andrew Carruth, youngest son of John and Margaret Johnston Carruth was to settle in  Whangarei where he practiced as a solicitor.

Whangarei Area 1840 - 1845
William Carruth took up land which were the Awatawhiti and Tiongongo blocks between the Hatea and Waiarohia Rivers (now city  central, Whangarei ). William's brother John and his wife settled nearby. Peter and James Greenhill took up land on the Awaroa River, a short distance down harbour. Part of the Greenhill Land at Awharoa was sold to William Gorrie Snr. Gilbert Mair took up the  Hatea Block (now Mairtown, Kensington and Otangarei) and was a near neighbour of William Gorrie.

Times were difficult for those early European settlers with the friction that was occurring between Maori and these newcomers over belongings and property.  Finally in March 1845 when all was coming to a head at Kororareka and the settlers decided to leave Whangarei area for Auckland.
Robert Mair reminiscing at the opening of  Christ Church Parochial Hall in 1914   was reported as saying:

"The passengers who left Whangarei in the cutter Trial included the following: —Mrs Gorrie and 4 children;' Mr Carruth, wife, and child; Alison, wife and 3 daughters; Mr William Carruth; Mr Cook, wife, 'and 2 boys; Mr Runciman, wife, and. 4 children; Mr Holman, wife and child; Mr German; Mr Nelson and partner; Mr Mair, wife and 9 children.
This gives a total of 43 out of about 48 all told. The balance of the names Mr Mair was unable' to remember"
      LOOKING BACKWARD. Northern Advocate , 18 June 1914, Page 11

A number  of the settlers did not return to the Whangarei Area, settling instead in Auckland, Papatoetoe and for a time further afield overseas. Edward Wall took his family to America, returning to Auckland in 1848 when things had quietened down.
 
In The New Zealand Insurance Company Limited. Bold Century. Auckland: The New Zealand Insurance Company Limited, 1959. (Shareholders Copy)

Families Spreading Further Afield

 As most early settler families,  descendants moved to other areas. A number of my kin were to settle on the Coromandel Peninsula. Bought there by occupation, marriage, church, community. Their names sometimes overlooked or forgotten in this part of the past NZ History - William John Gorrie who settled at Tairua during the 1880's, where he was clerk and bush manager at the sawmill there. Morton Gorrie who settled at Coromandel for a number of years farming, taking part in Council and helping to start a Cooperative Dairy Factory. James Stewart, Charles Vickerman, Jack Longbourne Vickerman who played a part in engineering and railways of the area as Engineers and or Surveyors, Ethelwyn Carruth  who passed State nursing examinations at Thames Hospital in 1913 , nursed  on the New Zealand  hospital ship Marama during WW1 and later after marriage settled at Ngatea. Jessie Stewart ( nee Murray ) who attended school in Thames where her father was a long serving Bank Manager at Thames and  a long serving member of the volunteer militia Jessie married John William Stewart, a solicitor  in Auckland and who had also practised in Thames and Paeroa for a time.
 
Reference Source:
  • Reed, A.H., The Story of Northland, A.H. & A.W. Reed, Wellington, facsimile edition 1975
  • Rust, A.M. , Whangarei and Districts’ Early Reminiscences, Mirror Printing and Publishing Co., 2009
  • Sherrin, Richard Arundell, Wallace J.H. Edited by   Leys, Thomson W .  1890. Early history of New. Auckland, New Zealand: H Brett, printer and Publisher.
  • Ward, Louis E. 1928. Early Wellington. Auckland: Whitcombe and Tombes.
  • NZBDM
  • The Sydney Monitor  Wednesday 22 August 1838 Page  4
  • The Colonist Wednesday 27 February 1839 Page 2 ( Trove newspapers)
  • The Sydney Monitor and Commercial Advertiser, Friday 1 March 1839 Page  4
  • SHIPPING INTELLIGENCE. New Zealand Gazette and Wellington Spectator, Volume I, Issue 4, 2 May 1840, Page 3 
  •  New Zealand Advertiser and Bay of Islands Gazette July 2 1840 page 2
  •  The Colonist Tuesday 29 December 1840 Page 4  ( Trove newspapers)
  • Daily Southern Cross, 19 July 1859, Page 3  Shipping Intelligence. PORT OF AUCKLAND.
  • Daily Southern Cross, 29 March 1864, Page 5 DREADFUL CASUALTY TO THE SCHOONER 'RAPID '—SUFFERINGS OF THE CREW— SIX LIVES LOST
  • LOOKING BACKWARD. Northern Advocate , 18 June 1914, Page 11
  • Family papers and documents

 


 




 

 
 

 

 
 

 

 

 

Monday 28 September 2015

Humpback Whales in Southern Pacific Seas

Hump Back Whales in Tonga Waters - photo Chris R Ball August 2015

29 September 2015 Today John Key ( Prime Minister of New Zealand ) announced plans for the Kermadec Trench to become an  Ocean Sanctuary. Several weeks ago we returned from a Tongan Holiday which included whale watching - Humpback whales who migrate from their Antarctic summer feeding areas warmer tropical waters such as Tonga for Winter calving. They travel long distances up largely  the Eastern Coast of New Zealand and through Cook Strait and along the West Coast. Following calving they return with their young to the Antarctic via along largely the West Coast of  New Zealand.
 
 The Kermadec from North Island New Zealand to Tonga provide a migratory corridor for humpback whales. The Kermadec Trench one of the planet Earth's  deepest trenches and its continuation - the Tongan Trench with its subduction is home to many fish, turtles and mammals such as Humpback Whale. From time way back and in the history of settlement in New Zealand they have been part of the many stories passed down.
 
Humpback Whale - Photo Chris R Ball August 2015

 
Anyway on with this Humpback Whale tale.  Saw Tom at the Supermarket after our return from Tongs.  Now Tom is a very keen fisherman off the shores of Coromandel's Eastern Seaboard. On hearing of our fortune seeing Humpback Whales with Deep Blue Diving in Tonga, Tom shared a sighting when fishing a couple of months ago, of a Humpback whale close to Whangamata Shores. Don't know whether this was one of those we saw at Tonga. However for the three of us it  recalled recent past history memories.
 
 A dead Humpback Whale being washed up on the Whangamata's Main  Surf Beach back in December 2011. There was another whale stranding on the South Beach, Whangamata back in the late 1990's near Hinemoa Street. Both the whales from these events were buried where found. Likewise for those that did not survive in the large pilot whale stranding further up the coast from Whangamata at Ohui near Opoutere in 2004. I remember that stranding very well and the joy felt when the surviving whale took the encouraging help and headed back out to sea on their journey towards Tuhua ( Mayor Island).
 
Island off Ohui Coromandel's Eastern Seaboard 1980's - Photo JM Stewart

Another such Humpback  was reported stranded and washed up on the Kapiti Coast at Waikanae Beach  in October 2014. Since people settlement on the coasts of New Zealand, strandings, wash ups or presence of large sea creatures such as whales, dolphins and sea elephants has always attracted great interest. In July 2014 a Humpback Whale visited   Reotahi reserve in Whangarei Harbour feeding on sprats - typical of Humpback for keeping close to the shoreline on their migratory route they feed on small fish, krill and plankton.
 
Humpback Whale seen from Deep Blue  Diving Tonga - photo Chris R Ball August 2015

Looking back in New Zealand's  papers online - Papers Past  New Zealand National Library one can find a number of articles on Humpback Whales.

 
Courtesy Papers Past, National Library NZ
Gone in recent times of New Zealand's past history  are the days of whalers and sealers who plied these coasts. Now it is people like us whale watching and in event of stranding or being washed up, community taking care of these whales.
 
 
Humpback Whale - photo Chis R Ball August 2015

 
My mother a DOC Wildlife Ranger with DOC ,organised in 1993 , a mammal  rescue seminar at Whangamata. We learned during this seminar the skills of assisting whales to survive and return to their sea travels. A rescue group was set up after this seminar, headed by coordinator Nobby Coxhead. No doubt some will have stories of this to pass down families - a relevant part of the Past NZ History on these coasts of New Zealand.


Mammal Rescue Seminar at Whangamata 1993  - photo HM Stewart
 
                                             Humpback Whale from Deep Blue Diving - Photo Chris R Ball August 2015
 
 Reference Source:
 

 



Thursday 10 September 2015

Ponui Passage - Lighting the Way

NEW ZEALAND LIGHTHOUSES (No. 4) .—The lighthouse in Ponui Passage, at the entrance to Auckland Harbo... [truncated] Evening Post, Volume CXII, Issue 10, 11 July 1931, Page 23 Papers Past, National Library New Zealand 

Ponui Passage Lighthouse A Screw pile light, this was the other of the two sea wave - washed lighthouses that James Stewart , Civil Engineer, was involved with in design and superintending construction. The location of this lighthouse was on a flattish table bank of a sandbank known as “sandspit” to shipping which travelled to and from Thames in the Hauraki Gulf and Auckland on the Waitemata Harbour.
 
Map not drawn to scale and only approximate to show Lighthouse locations  ASB 2010
 
Determining the position, Stewart, just as with Bean Rock Lighthouse, enlisted the expertise of Captain Burgess, Chief Harbour-master, Auckland, before and during construction, with careful soundings being made to determine the geological composition of the sandspit. Imbedded timber at the bottom of the sandspit was a fear when screwing down the piles.
 
Mr. Heron’s (of Shortland) tender of £2,300 was the successful one for the construction of the Sandspit Lighthouse in the Ponui Passage. William Hammond ( AKA Toss ) in an article in the Ohinemuri Journal, writes of his father and Messrs Flatt, Heron, Morton, Craigie building this lighthouse.( Hammond, 1964)
 
Reading the description of the labour required to complete construction of the lighthouse in various articles and Stewart's own paper to the Auckland Institute reads like heavy labour ( none of the construction technology that is available today in 2014).

To effect the screwing down of the cast iron piles with a capstan, a temporary platform was built. The Daily Southern Cross reported the following on the method:

…”The plan adopted was to prepare long poles with a peculiar kind of screw thread, and screw them into the ground. The thread of the screw began at the point with nothing, and increased to l4 in. This, its greatest width, was attained in two and a-half turns, and then one full turn was given after it had attained that distance in the solid. The power to screw them down was applied by men with a capstan….” AUCKLAND INSTITUTE. Daily Southern Cross, Vol. 29 August 1871, P 3
 
Stewart estimated that the total weight of the lighthouse structure was about 60 tons and wrote that:-
 
….” The interiors of the piles are filled with good cement mortar, to preserve the iron from rust, and the heads and nuts of the joint bolts are imbedded in the same. Tubular cast iron braces, and the lower timber frame, three feet above high water, complete the foundation which has answered all expectations in the recent exceptionally stormy season…” ( J Stewart,1871)

Stewart was to write and read a paper to the Auckland Institute on the foundations of the lighthouse in Ponui Passage.  In this, he described the determining of a suitable site with Captain Burgess, Chief Harbour Master and screwing down the piles with the aid of a capstan and winch handles worked by four men.
 
 
James Stewart , Civil Engineer
The Cyclopaedia of New Zealand, Vol 2, Auckland Province. Christchurch: Cyclopaedia Company Limited, 1902.
 
 Both Bean Rock and the lighthouse at Sandspit in the Ponui Passage were completed in 1871, Messrs Fraser & Tinne having provided the ironwork. Both lighthouses were completed with a hexagonal shaped wooden tower which formed a cottage and storeroom for the Light house keeper.
 One of the first lighthouse keepers at Ponui Passage lighthouse, or Sandspit as it sometimes was known, was Daniel Macfarlane ( Archives NZ, ACFM 8180 46 870/76). MacFarlane - in some records spelled McFarland or McFarlane – common variance with this surname) was followed by Charles H.O. Robson as Principal Light house keeper and then John Marsh.

 
 
In those days before automation, lighthouses were manned by Lighthouse Keepers. One of the responsibilities was to keep the lights going for what had become a busy route with “coasters” – steamers and sailing ships plying with cargo and passengers.
The early years of operation of this lighthouse saw two collisions nearby – that of the cutter “Avon” with the steamer “Golden Crown” in December 1871  and in July 1877 the ketch “Adah” with the “Southern Cross.”

From newspaper accounts in later years, it would appear that in November 1896, some damage was done to this lighthouse. Evidently the schooner Huon Belle, owned by J.J. Craig was reported to have run aground against the lighthouse causing damage to two of the iron piles and the lamp glasses. The Huon Belle had been purchased by Joseph J Craig  to carry Portland Cement from Whangarei to Coromandel Peninsula for the new industrial mine batteries being constructed.
 

OLDEST VESSEL IN NEW ZEALAND.—The 25-ion ketch Huon Belle, bulk in Tasmania in 1864,.5ti1l plies reg... [truncated] Auckland Star, Volume LXV, Issue 191, 14 August 1934, Page 5 Papers Past, National Library New Zealand
 
According to New Zealand Lighthouse, the lighthouse at Sandspit in the Ponui Passage became automated in 1915 or 1916, ending the era of light house keepers here. In 1938 the wooden cottage was moved to Ponui Island nearby. (Website New Zealand Lighthouse, accessed 07/04/2010) Today in 2014 it is a different vessel navigating the route – yachts and fishing boats.
 
  From Tararu, Thames, NZ looking toward coast near Ponui Passage in March 2010, CRB photo collection

Reference Source:

•  Churchman, Geoffrey B. NEW ZEALAND LIGHTHOUSES. Government Printing Office, 1989.
 •  By J. STEWART, Assoc.Inst.C.E. “ART. XI.—A Description of the Foundation of the Lighthouse in the Ponui Passage.” In Transactions and Proceedings NZ Institute, from Volume 4. 1871:
 •   Ohinemuri Regional History Journal 2, October 1964 By Wm Hammond OHINEMURI LINKS WITH THAMES
   Associated Journals House Representatives ( AJHR)  ATOLS online National Library New Zealand 
 •   AJHR 1870/ 1871, p. G.6.4 Annual Report. NZ Marine Department
 •   AJHR 1872 p G. 30. 4 Annual Report NZ Marine Department.” 
 •  AJHR 1874 p H.22, 14-18. Annual Report. NZ Marine Department P.2 
 •  AJHR 1872, Section G30, p 14
 •  AJHR 1878, Section H12, p 26
 Newspapers  Papers Past, National Library New Zealand  -
 •  Daily Southern Cross. NEW ZEALAND LIGHTHOUSES.— REPORT OF MR. BALFOUR. Daily Southern Cross, 27 September 1865, Page 6 
 •  Daily Southern Cross. PROPOSED LIGHTHOUSES AT BEAN ROCK AND THE SANDSPIT. Daily Southern Cross, 21 July 1870, Page 2  
 •  Daily Southern Cross. “THE LIGHTHOUSE TENDERS. Daily Southern Cross, 4 August 1870, Page 3.” Papers Past.
 •  Daily Southern Cross. “AUCKLAND INSTITUTE. Issue 4380, 29 August 1871, Page 3. 
 •  Thames Star, 18/11/1896: p4  
 •  OLDEST VESSEL IN NEW ZEALAND.—The 25-ton ketch Huon Belle, bulk in Tasmania in 1864,.5ti1l plies reg... [truncated] Auckland Star, Volume LXV, Issue 191, 14 August 1934, Page 5

 
                                            
 

 
 


Tuesday 21 July 2015

Islands of Coromandel's Eastern Seaboard NZ

Motuhoa ( Shoe) and Whakahau ( Slipper) - looking  out to sea from Paku - Photo C R Ball 2015

Having visited another Island of the Pacific got me thinking about the islands where we live on Coromandel's  Eastern Seaboard. The stories passed down through several generations about these, often, rocky outcrops. Their place in the history of the Coromandel Peninsula, a relevant part of the past New Zealand history. First people to the shore - Maori - named them. Captain Cook arriving on New Zealand coasts in 1769 gave them English names. ( Often saying they reminded him of something at home). Some  of those English names stuck and some have returned to their original name.

Whiritoa and Paku at Tairua are two of the few places where one gain a good view of most of the islands up and down the coast.  That is if one is on the shore and not out at sea.

These Islands have become a part of the past history of  the area with tales and stories passed down through families - memories of fishing trips, holidays at the beach, living on. The islands with the coastline are one of the first sightings Captain Cook had in  November 1769 when he made his way up to Te Whanganui-o-Hei - what has become  known as Mercury Bay  ( named such by Cook for the transit of Mercury observed by those of the ship Endeavour on 9th November 1769 ) 

In fact Cook   voyaging Northwards to Te Whanganui-o-Hei named a number of Islands on the way. One of the first of these was Whakaari which he named White Island - the reason, he wrote" because as such it always appear'd to us " (Wharton , 1893 ) Parkinson Banks' draughtsman recorded in his journal that Whakaari was " rocky, high and barren". ( Stanfield, ed.)


Whakaari - White Island in the Bay of Plenty
TAYLOR, Richard - M.A., Missionary in New Zealand. 1870. Image taken from page 275 of '[Te Ika a Maui, or, New Zealand and its Inhabitants ... Second edition, etc. London: British Library HMNTS 10491.dd.8." p 275.
FLIKR


Sometimes on a clear day from the shore one can see the smoke plumes  of  Whakaari (White Island )  down in the Bay of Plenty (Te Moana a Toi ). Very occasionally in the right place onshore, Whakaari can be seen. Hence including it in the islands of the Eastern Seaboard Coast. 

On Whakaari looking towards Coromandel Peninsula -November 2015  photo courtesy Chris Ball

In 1914 one of New Zealand's worst Industrial disasters occurred when there was a landslide killing 10 men of the Sulphur Works which was on Whakaari then. The camp cat was a survivor. According to various accounts "Peter the Great" was found three weeks later. Reminders of Tarawera eruption and another cat at Te Wairoa that survived a disaster.

In 1936 George Raymond Buttle bought Whakaari and today the island remains privately owned by descendants of  George Buttle's  family. Whakaari is  a private scenic reserve ( on 3 December 1953) , a tourism venture with tours  by boat and helicopter to the island  and an active volcano.

Whakaari from the tour boat November 2015  photo courtesy Chris Ball

Most of the islands of the Eastern Seaboard are privately owned - Tuhua or Mayor Island administered by the Tuhua Trust Board. Tuhua is the Maori name for obsidian, thus describing aptly the Island for this dark volcanic glass that was here in quantities was sought after by Maori in pre European days for some sharpening tools and working with other tools.

Tuhua ( Mayor Island ) from Whiritoa - Photo C R Ball 2010

Mayor Island as it has become known ( a name Captain Cook gave the island  back in November 1769 when sheltering overnight on the North East corner) is home of the Mako Shark. According to Goldsmith  in a paper he read to the Auckland Institute in 1884 Mako " is found off this island and nowhere else in the world " ( Goldsmith 1884)

Today there is a Marine Reserve around the Northern end of Tuhua ( Mayor Island ).  The waters near Tuhua ( Mayor Island ) have became popular recreational fishing spots for  big Game Fishing - Tuna, Marlin and King fish, especially during the 1930's and  1940's.

WHEN THE FIGHT IS ON A striped marlin swordfish broaching in an endeavour to secure its freedom on t... [truncated] New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXII, Issue 22028, 7 February 1935, Page 8 courtesy Papers Past National Library NZ 


In past history, it was not just the game fishing that Tuhua ( Mayor island) was renown for.  Back in 1922 pioneer film maker Rudall Hayward, backed by a syndicate of 20, produced  the film " My Lady of the Cave. A newspaper serial, written by nearby Waihi School Master H T Gibson, was used. Mayor Island ( Tuhua ) was the scene of film shots for six weeks of filming out of seven. The film was said to be amongst stunning scenery and the film set in 1890's Bay of Plenty, a romantic drama. Camera man, Frank Stewart, was kept busy with even a  " shoot- out amongst moonshiners.'

  On up the Coast are reminders of volcanic activity in the rocky outcrops along the coastline. Northwards from Whiritoa is  Petley’s Rock – named for Mr. Petley, a Whangamata Fisherman of renown. Distinct craggy outcrops worn by the sea and storm  - known as the  “Pinnacles” –  grown up with, in sight from Otahu and Whangamata – reminders of what was the Tunaiti Caldera.

Looking towards Pinnacles from South Beach - photo C R Ball 1997

On up to South Beach Whangamata and the main surf beach  three Islands lying offshore from Whangamata – Hauturu (Clark Island) Whenuakura (called Doughnut Island sometimes because of its cave and hole near the middle), and Rawengaiti where it has been known to catch the odd strange fish nearby. These islands were once home of Tuatara, our quaint New Zealand lizards from prehistoric times - unfortunately in 2015 -gone.


Maukaha  Rocks, Whenuakura, Rawengaiti - photo C R Ball 2000

Hauturu ( Clark Island ) from Whangamata Peninsula - Photo C R Ball 2010

Lillian Clark , of Whangamata in the 1940's ,would have probably been the first conservationist of forest, seashore and beach life. A reminder to visiting holidaymakers to respect and not destroy. 

Government legislation records that Whenuakura, Rawengaiti Islands and Maukaha rocks lying to the northwest of Whenuakura Island were declared Wildlife Sanctuaries in 1976. This was the Wildlife Sanctuary (Whangamata Islands) Order 1976 and was declared sanctuaries because of the presence of Tuatara. This order was made pursuant to section 9 of the Wildlife Act 1953 and administered by the Wildlife Department of Internal Affairs - later Department of Conservation in April 1987.

Further up the coast from  Opoutere one can sight Hikunui Island near the Wharekawa Entrance, From Onemana, Opoutere, Ohui and Pauanui , one can sight Whakakau (Slipper Island) - home for many years of the Normans latterly of Opoutere and then the Needham family.  Both farmed this Island and there are memories of the barge to Tairua return used for supplies and livestock.

Whakahau ( Slipper Island ) Rabbit and Penguin  Whites Aviation photo 1959 J M Stewart photo collection

Also seen is Motuhoa (Shoe Island) which is at the Tairua River Entrance – the scene of the shipwreck of the cutter “Glance” in 1877. 

Motuhoa ( Shoe Island) from Main Surf Beach Tairua - photo C R Ball 2011

Looking back over history of Slipper Island many were the vessels and people that sheltered at Whakahau (Slipper Island) including the Tauranga Rugby Team aboard s s Fingal in 1907 - on their way to a rugby match against the Mercury Bay team at Whitianga.

Whakahau ( Slipper )- view through pines on main beach Pauanui - C R Ball 2014

From early European settlement days   waters around Whakahau (Slipper)  had gained a reputation for good fishing grounds. However fishing also had its dangerous moments as was reported in 1936. The Auckland Star reported on a fisherman's injury in 1936:- 

"  As the result of a fight with a shark which had a large hook fastened in its tail Mr. William Clarkson, a fisherman, of Whangamata, suffered a severe injury to his left hand on Sunday morning when fishing off Slipper Island, near Whangamata. When the shark was hooked it put up a lively fight and it was some time before it was brought alongside the boat. Mr, Clarkson then attempted th seize the struggling fish by the tail, but was astonished when he found that his left hand, between the thumb and the first finger, had been penetrated by a hook which evidently at some time had become fastened in the shark's tail"   ( Auckland Star, 6 /10/ 1936, P 11)

My own memories of  my father aboard Clio in  Eastern Seaboard Waters are the damage sharks did to the nets which had to be constantly repaired. Other memories are of a white pointer shark in the  Channel between Rabbit and Penguin Island. That was back in the late 1970's just after the movie Jaws had been released. Don't think the one at Whakahau ( Slipper), was as big as the 35 foot Great White Shark of the movie, however it did give moments of disquiet.  The Slipper Island version was real - not the robotic version of the movie which 40 years later still remains terrifying


Looking further out to sea in the distance are the  Ruamāhua (Aldermen Islands ) - a wildlife sanctuary since 1933. Named by Captain Cook in 1769 because their rocky caps reminded him of a court of Aldermen. Captain Cook having sheltered overnight at what he named Mayor ( Tuhua ) on heading up the coast wrote
 :-
" The Cluster of Islands and Rocks just mentioned we named the Court of Aldermen; they lay in the Compass of about half a League every way, and 5 Leagues from the Main, between which and them lay other Islands. The most of them are barren rocks, and of these there is a very great Variety, some of them are of as small a Compass as the Monument in London, and Spire up to a much greater height; they lay in the Latitude of 36 degrees 57 minutes, and some of them are inhabited. "  ( Wharton 1893)

Looking out to the Aldermen islands from Opoutere/ Pauanui Forestry Road - photo courtesy Sam Ball  August  2015

Within this group is seen Hongiora (Flat Island) home breeding ground of grey faced petrel – sometimes washed up on our beaches in storms. Also the rocky caps of Ruamahuaiti, Middle and Ruamahuanui Islands. In 1933 the area was declared to be a bird sanctuary.

ISLANDS OFF THE COROMANDEL PENINSULA TO BE OBTAINED FOR A BIRD SANCTUARY A deep-sea fishing launch p... [truncated] New Zealand Herald, Volume LXX, Issue 21422, 21 February 1933, P 6 courtesy Papers Past National Library NZ 

Yes we are fortunate to have these Islands of Coromandel's Eastern Seaboard, with their tales of flora, fauna and people through the years - a part of past New Zealand history.

Reference Source:
  •  Ed. Captain W.J.L. Wharton R.N., F.R.S. 1893. CAPTAIN COOK'S JOURNAL DURING HIS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD MADE IN H.M. BARK ""ENDEAVOUR" 1768-71 A Literal Transcription of the Original MSS. London: Elliot Stock, 62 Paternoster Row. http://www.gutenberg.org/files/8106/8106-h/8106-h.htm
  • Parkinson, Ed. Stanfield. n.d. A Journal of a Voyage to the South Seas in his Majesty’s Ship, The Endeavour .Faithfully transcribed from the Papers of the late SYDNEY PARKINSON,. London: Paternoster Row. http://southseas.nla.gov.au/journals/parkinson/141.html
  • Taylor, Richard - M.A., Missionary in New Zealand. 1870. Image taken from page 275 of '[Te Ika a Maui, or, New Zealand and its Inhabitants ... Second edition, etc. London: British Library HMNTS 10491.dd.8." p 275. FLIKR
  • Grenfell, Hugh. 'The 1914 White Island/Whakaari mining disaster'. Auckland War Memorial Museum - Tāmaki Paenga Hira. First published: 20 May 2015. Updated: 16 June 2015.URL: www.aucklandmuseum.com/collections-research/collections/topics/the-1914-white-island-whakaari-mining-disaster
  • Transactions & Proceedings NZ Institute ( Royal Society ) Art. LIII.—Description of Mayor Island[Read before the Auckland Institute, 11th August, 1884.] By E. C. Gold-Smith District Surveyor, Tauranga., from Volume 17, 1884
  • The Film Archive - My Lady of the Cave
  • WHEN THE FIGHT IS ON A striped marlin swordfish broaching in an endeavour to secure its freedom on t... [truncated] New Zealand Herald, 7 February 1935, Page 8
  • FIGHT WITH SHARK. Auckland Star,  6 October 1936, Page 11 
  • ISLANDS OFF THE COROMANDEL PENINSULA TO BE OBTAINED FOR A BIRD SANCTUARY A deep-sea fishing launch p... [truncated] New Zealand Herald, , 21 February 1933, Page 6