Whiritoa - From long ago to now 2020

                                     Whiritoa Blow Hole end - photo courtesy Chris Ball 2015

Way back, millions of years ago, there were violent volcanic upheavals and things were said to be pretty hot. The earth spewed molten rock and lava from deep within, changing the landscape and forming what we see today.

                                   Cliffs south end Whiritoa - photo courtesy Chris Ball 2009

 Whiritoa, with the two valleys known as Whiritoa and Ramarama. ( called for the streams which flowed through them.) 

                        Whiritoa stream winding through wetlands to blowhole - photo Chris Ball 2010

Stretching from the mouth of the Otahu Inlet all the way to Waimama Bay, near Whiritoa was once a huge caldera called Tunaiti. Tunaiti’s diameter was said to be about 5 kilometres. The earth lay still. The sea invaded part of Tunaiti Caldera. Molten lava cooled, creating the spectacular coastline seen today. 

                                                     Along the coast to Whiritoa - photo JM Stewart 1980's

The collapsed caves and blowholes of Whiritoa South. Columnar  Jointing along parts of the cliffs around Papakura Bay. The distinct dome shapes of the hills seen up the Whiritoa and Ramarama Valleys, a reminder of the volcanic activity. Minerals, typical of Coromandel Peninsular volcanic upheaval, lay chilled in the coastal cliff faces - dark glassy perlite – a form of obsidian, still seen today.

                                  Rocky cliff Whiritoa South - photo courtesy Chris Ball 2015

 A mixed forest of kauri established itself on the volcanic ash and pumice. To this area came our First Peoples to gather the abundant supply of fish, shellfish and flax. Pa were established and the area was settled. That was long ago, and evidence can be found by archaeologists in the middens along the coast.

Whiritoa from the cliffs - photo courtesy Chris Ball 2004

Then came European seeking timber and from 1873 those seeking to stake their gold mining claim. They used sea transport (price negotiated) or mainly the Maori tracks. Some over the ranges and other tracks which followed a route from Paritu, Whangamata, Parakiwai, via Whiritoa to  Mataora and on to Ohinemuri.  There was certainly no State Highway 25 then.

Looking over the hills of Whiritoa towards the ranges and tracks across - photo courtesy Chris Ball 2007

In the 1880’s, a store was established at Parakiwai to trade gum and provide supplies to the surrounding areas. The Ross family, who settled at Whiritoa farming, found company in the few gold miners still working their claims in the Parakiwai area. The Te Wharekirauponga Stream (past the Royal Standard Mine) and Te Whareki tracks over to Golden Cross were ideal “shortcuts” to visit Ross friends at Waitekauri. However these tracks also gained the reputation of being a “Packers' nightmare “owing to the traffic use and sometimes very boggy conditions. Still no road to Whiritoa from Waihi.

 The Royal Standard Mine operation closed down in 1897. Gum digging, kauri logging and gold mining faded away, with farming taking their place. Mataora, in the next bay Southward, became a large farm, which helped sustain iwi  farming the land block, during the depression of the 1930's. There were also employment at the giant Waihi Gold mining Company. A " native school" was also built in 1908.A number of children from Whiritoa also went to this school, using the track fringing Otongo Point, Whiritoa to Mataora.

schoolhouse " Native school" Mataora - photo courtesy Chris Ball 2002

Mr. Ross, as well as farming at Whiritoa, kept sheep at Parakiwai ,in the next valley Northwards. Ross  shipped the wool via steamer to Auckland from Whangamata, or via Pack Horse to Waihi. At long last in the early 1920’s a clay road was opened from Waihi to Parakiwai via Whiritoa. Early days saw it with the reputation of a “buggy driver’s nightmare” for many of the same reasons as the Te Wharekirauponga Track. The Ross farm at Whiritoa was a great half – way point for Phillip Williamson, early settler of Whangamata, along with others, having “braved “ the clay road or Otahu Estuary. Over the years the road changed to a metalled State Highway 25, then the tar seal of today. ( after the 1960’s) The Ross farm gave way to a subdivision - Whiritoa.

Houses and baches sprang up and a new era for Whiritoa began. Today holidays near the sea, coastline and bush of long ago.

sea in storm invaded cliff wall South end - photo courtesy Chris Ball 2015

Reference Sources

• Binney, Judith, Redemption Songs: A Life of Te Kooti  Arikirangi Te Turuki, Auckland University Press, 1995 p293 –294
• Homer, L.; Moore, P. Vanishing Volcanoes: A guide to the landforms and rock formations of Coromandel Peninsula. Landscape Publications, Wellington.1992.
• Williamson, Beverley, M. Whangamata – 100 Years of Change, Goldfields Print Ltd. 1988
• Map N.Z. M.S. 274 , Coromandel State Forest Park, New Zealand Forest Service, 1st edition 1979
• In Ohinemuri Regional History Journal Historic Tracks of the Ohinemuri District Chook's Manuscripts THE TE WHAREKIRAUPONGA TRACK QUARRY ROAD TO GOLDEN CROSS http://www.ohinemuri.org.nz/index.html Also includes Extracts from ‘ The Patchwork Quilt “ by L.P. Wheeler

Lava flow exposed after storm 2009 - photo Chris Ball